Sage Bistro

Both owner and chef at Sage, Kunst has created a bucolic haven that manages to be casual, contemporary and oh so Canadian.

Sage Bistro

I was relieved to see that second-generation owner Todd Kunst didn’t mess with the good things when he reconceived Sage Bistro from the family-run restaurant in 2001. For an old miner like Stein, there’s nothing like the rustic sturdiness of an original log building and seeing the trains as they pass the bistro on their way through the Canmore’s mountains. (Sage’s sprawling deck is a great place to watch the trains go by as you satisfy your appetite for great food and unforgettable Rocky Mountain experiences.)

Both owner and chef at Sage, Kunst has created a bucolic haven that manages to be casual, contemporary and oh so Canadian.

The menu teems with homegrown goodness (as well as a smattering of international fare) including Alberta venison and trout, PEI mussels and BC salmon…all at prices under $30.

For my first visit, I heeded the advice of locals and wandered over when the sun was just cresting over the craggy mountain peaks. Weekend breakfasts at Sage are notoriously hearty and fresh. I was warned to allow for resting time afterwards: the generous meals are far too delicious to leave unfinished.

I chose the Three Sisters Breakfast, which serves up everything in triplicate: eggs, bacon, sausage, toast and mini-pancakes. This is the type of place where the best ingredients going in mean the best meals coming out. As I chowed down, the aroma of Sage’s nutty banana bread French toast reminded me there are plenty of choices for delectable breakfasts.

I left Sage happy and full. In the evening (after a solid afternoon rest), I doubled back to sample some of the dinner options. Although it was Wednesday (Sage’s ‘free corkage’ night), I left my dusty bottles at home and chose the bistro’s Seghesio Zinfandel ($58) to complement my braised lamb shank ($25). The taste was incredible; the presentation…ditto.

An old fella like me needs to turn in early; but as I was saying my goodbyes at around nine o’clock, the night was still young at Sage. The wine lounge upstairs is open seven days a week until midnight, and it offers a variety of tapas, sharing platters, cheeses and carefully selected wines available in flights of three.

Consider Sage Bistro highly recommended by sage ol’ Stein!

Sage Bistro is located at 1712 Bow Valley Trail. Reservations: 403-678-4878

www.SageBistro.ca

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